winter squash, brown butter, and sage souffles

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Choose from a variety of winter squash with a sweet taste and velvety flesh.I love the delicate flavor and smooth texture of acorn, kabocha, butternut, and hubbard squash. The brown butter adds an accent of nuttiness to the squash.

1 medium winter squash (about 2 pounds)
1/4 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup finely grated parmesan cheese, plus more for dusting and for garnish
1 tablespoon dried sage
3/4 teaspoon salt
3 egg yolks
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3/4 cup whole milk
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 egg whites at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Put the squash on a cutting board and carefully cut it in half lengthwise with a large chef’s knife or serrated knife. Poke 2 or 3 slits into the squash skin and place the two halves, flesh-side down, on a baking sheet. Roast until tender to the touch, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool (see Note).

Scoop out the seeds with a spoon and discard them. Carefully scoop out the cooked flesh. Place half in a blender with the chicken broth and blend until smooth. You should have about 12 cup of purée. Pour the purée into a large bowl; add the cheese, sage, salt, and egg yolks and whisk until smooth. Cut the remaining squash into 1/2-inch chunks and fold them into the puréed mixture. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly butter the sides and bottoms of six 6-ounce (3/4 cup) ceramic ramekins and dust them with grated Parmesan cheese. Arrange the ramekins on a baking sheet and set aside. put the flour in a small bowl and add the milk slowly while whisking. Whisk until completely smooth. Put the butter in a medium saucepan and melt over medium heat. Simmer the butter while stirring constantly, until it looks brown and smells toasty, about 1 minute.

Remove from the heat and whisk the flour-and-milk mixture into the butter. Place the saucepan back on the stove and cook for 30 seconds. Pour into the squash mixture and whisk together.

Pour the egg whites into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whip attachment. Whip at medium speed until the egg whites form shiny, medium peaks that hold their shape. Stir half of the whites into the squash base to lighten it.

Fold in the remaining whites and spoon the soufflé mixture evenly among the buttered ramekins. Sprinkle each soufflé with grated Parmesan cheese. immediately place the soufflés into the oven and bake until they are just set in the center and golden on top, 15 to 20 minutes. To test for doneness, use a paring knife to pry the top of a soufflé open just enough to look inside; it should appear softly set. Serve immediately after removing from the oven.

Note
Roast your squash 1 or 2 days beforehand, if you like. Wrap and store in the refrigerator until you are ready to assemble and bake the soufflés.

Excerpted from Savory Baking: Warm and Inspiring Recipes for Crisp, Crumbly and Flaky Pastries.  by Mary Cech.

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everyday half and half loaf

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adapted from The River Cottage Family Cookbook, Makes 2 Loaves

3 1/3 cups white whole wheat flour
3 1/3 cups unbleached white flour
heaping 1/2 cup wheat germ (optional)
4 teaspoons salt (1 Tbs + 1 tsp)
4 teaspoons active dry yeast
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons honey or sugar
2 1/3 cups very warm water (approximately, see below)

In a 4-cup capacity measure, add olive oil and honey, then fill with very warm water to bring up to the 2 1/2 cup mark.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine flours, wheat germ (if using), salt and yeast.  Turn to low and stir briefly, to combine.  With mixer still on low, slowly pour in oil-honey-water mixture.  Increase speed to medium (KitchenAid: 4).  If dough is sticky (clings to the side of the bowl), add a Tablespoon of flour.  If dough appears crumbly and dry (won't come together), add another Tablespoon of warm water.  Knead on medium 6-8 minutes.  Dough will be a cohesive ball, and will have developed a slight sheen. 

(Alternatively, in a large bowl, combine dry ingredients, then add wet, stirring with a wooden spoon to combine.  When mixture is mostly homogenous, turn out onto a clean, floured board, and knead by hand until dough turns silky and supple, about 10 minutes.)

Turn dough out into a well-buttered bowl, cover with a clean tea towel, and set in a warm spot to rise.  I simply set it on an interior counter, away from drafty windows.  (Alternatively, you can refrigerate your dough overnight for a long, slow first rise.)  After 1 1/2 - 2 hours, your dough will have doubled in size and become billowing and elastic.  Poke it with a finger; if the hole remains, you are ready for rise 2.  (If not, allow it another half hour).

Butter two bread pans lavishly.  Punch down your dough (this is the second best part, right after eating your bread, hot and buttered), turn it out onto a clean surface, and knead briefly, 30 seconds or so.  Divide in two portions, and form each into two 'sausages', and place into bread pans, seam-side down.

Preheat oven to 350°.  Place tins in oven, and bake about 30 minutes, until your house smells exquisite and the loaf tops are golden.  To check for doneness, tip a loaf into your (oven-mitted) hand, and thump the bottom.  If it squashes and thuds, return to the oven for five minutes more.  If it sounds hollow, it is done.

Authorities say to let a loaf rest an hour out of the oven before slicing.  I consider ten minutes a show of tremendous restraint.

Simple Soft Sugar Cookies

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1/2 c. butter, room temperature
1 1/2 c. sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp. salt
2 tsp. vanilla
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 c. sour cream
3 c. flour

Preheat oven to 375F and place baking rack to middle position. Place parchment or silicone baking pad on baking sheet, set aside.

In large bowl, using electric mixer - combine butter and sugar until light and fluffy; add eggs, thoroughly combine. Add salt, vanilla, baking powder, baking soda, and sour cream - mix until combined. Add flour and mix until just combined.

Drop by tablespoons onto baking sheet, about 1 1/2 inches apart; sprinkle generously with sugar. Bake 8-10 minutes, just until bottoms are light golden. Place on cooling rack. ENJOY!